THAT ONE DESERT THAT HUGS THE SOUL : WADI RUM, JORDAN

From my very personal experience, Wadi Rum carries specific aura without even needing to farm it. If you know what I mean. To keep it shorts, the place is too magical that it made me and my friend cried of gratitude that we had chance to experience the beauty. We all fairly well-traveled, and out of all places we have been, not many can hugs the soul like Wadi Rum did for us.

I like to arrange my itinerary from the least to the most highlighted destination, so the excitement is well-built. That’s why I put Wadi Rum first then Petra. But I think, it was a mistake. Wadi Rum set the bar too high that Petra could not par it. Again, this is according to my personal feeling and experience.

Although, funny thing, we met other traveler in Wadi Rum, and they felt the same too! So I guess, we’re not crazy with this statement after all?!

HOW TO GET THERE

From Amman to Wadi Rum

While most people choose to drive, we decided not to rent a car—simply because everyone was too lazy to drive lol. Instead, we took a bus called Jett Bus. I bought the tickets online via Busbud since the Jett Bus website itself was a bit too confusing to navigate.

If you’re wondering whether there’s a direct route from Amman to Wadi Rum, the answer is yes—there is. I know the official website seems to indicate that they only have Amman–Petra and then Petra–Wadi Rum routes, that actually was not entirely accurate. The Jett Bus have many route options apparently, I found this reliable Jett Bus timetable here along with the estimated fare.

The bus ride from Amman to Wadi Rum took about 4 hours, with all the desert views along the way – clearly I found it interesting since I would not be able to find it in my home country. There were several stops for snacks and toilet breaks, great to stretch our body a little bit. What made me sad is that the bus was almost empty—it’s a small bus, but there were less than 10 people onboard. I really hope they can keep this route running, because honestly, it’s so useful for non-driving travelers like us.

The bus dropped us off at the Wadi Rum Visitor Center to register ourselves with a Jordan Pass. From there, we’ve arranged a pickup with the camp. The transfer normally costs around 10 JOD per car but we tried to make it a package with the Jeep Tour price.

WHERE TO STAY

I know—you’re probably overwhelmed by all the camp options on every OTA out there. Trust me, I was too. I researched so much I almost got dizzy and nose bleeding (kidding). But yes, finding the right bubble camp in Wadi Rum was hell a challenge.

But after a long research and discussions, me and my friends eventually settled with Aicha Luxury Camp. Yes, it’s a bit expensive—but believe me, it’s worth it. The rate is half-board, which means breakfast and dinner are included. And with all the facilities they have, I think the price is very reasonable.

Here’s what I loved most about Aicha Camp:

1. The Food

This is not just an “okay” food or “buffet” kinda food. It’s actually and surprisingly delicious. They offer a great option of meats—chicken, beef, lamb, and even seafood! I meant, in a deserted place like this, I think it’s a big points!

Drinks are included too, and there are plenty of drink options, so you don’t need to pay extra for anything during dinner.

The Dining Dome – Aicha Luxury Camp

2. The Bonfire & the Tea

After dinner, we noticed a small crowd gathering behind the dining dome. At first, we thought there would be some kind of local performance—but we were wrong. Instead, people were just cozied up around a bonfire while sipping tea provided by the camp. Simple but very thoughtfully romantic at some point. We spent some time here for a little chat over the warm chai, under the full moon!

3. The Tour

The tour isn’t included in the stay, but Aicha has their own tour arrangement. The good thing is you can still haggle the price. We paid around 100 JOD per car, which already included pickup from the bus stop. It was a private tour, so we had flexibility to arrange the timing and destinations.

I also compared it with other tour providers, which mostly offer shared tours with other guests. Those usually cost around 35 JOD per person and don’t include pickup and return to the camp.

Since we were a group of three, paying 100 JOD for a private tour was clearly a great deal! Not to mention that was already including the return pick-up from Visitor Center to the camp.

4. The Morning Trek

I didn’t even realize there was a viewpoint on the sand hill right behind the camp until my friend spotted someone standing there while we were walking to breakfast. So we instantly decided to go up after eating.

The trail is easy, though you do need to find a climbing path that works for you at certain points. OH boy, the view from the top was a top notch!!

WHAT TO DO

The main excursion in the desert is, of course, exploring the desert itself.

The tour from the camp provided us with a list of spots to visit, but I chose to handpick our stops. Because some of the places looked quite similar and we only had a few hours before sunset. Gladly it was a private one — so we had the jeep to ourselves and we could arrange everything as we liked.

Our first stop was the Sand Dunes, followed by Khazali Canyon, then the Little Bridge, and the larger Um Frouth Rock Bridge.

We ended the tour with my ultimate personal favorite: sunset in the desert with Bedouin tea. I specifically asked the operator to include a tea session at sunset, and honestly, the spot they chose was BOMB!

What I didn’t expect was that our guide, who was also our driver- would build a small fire right there in the desert to heat the teapot. I thought he’s just going to serve us the tea that was boiled beforehand. All of this happened while we sat facing the sun slowly down in the horizon. It was simple but an ultimate soul feeding.

I’ve been to the Sahara Desert many years ago, but Wadi Rum just hits different. Its red, dramatically stunning, and somehow there’s something about it that comforts your soul.

Finished with the sunset, we cruised back to camp as the sky gets darkened, transitioning from sunset to a full moon—yes, it was a full moon! And it was amazing! We screamed with excitement the moment we spotted the full moon, and our driver immediately stopped the jeep and encouraged us to take pictures. It was funny that he looked as excited as we were (lol).

We took countless photos before returning to our seats at the back of the jeep. The rest of the drive to the camp was in silence, each of us was busy absorbing the desert in our own way, as if we spoke to the desert in our mind. That was the moment I cried—out of gratitude.

Thank you, Wadi Rum, for reminding me that I can still feel the knock on my soul again while traveling.