I arrived in Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan after 16 hours bus ride from Almaty. It was a bit mess because I had no idea that the bus actually stop at the border in Kazakhstan side, it did not go to Tashkent.
Well, Tashkent is only an hour drive from the border Zhibek Zholy, but it’s still pretty annoying to wake up from long overnight bus, still bleared-eye yet I had to wrestle with my luggage towards the chaos in the border crossing. Then after clearing Uzbek immigration, I just realized that my bus would not came through the border gate. It really caught me off guard, especially when I did not have Uzbek SIM card yet to access the internet. The only idea I had was to ask other tourist-looking people.
Lucky me, in the sea of non-english speaking people, I spotted a group of Chinese young traveler who speak English. I overheard that they also trying to figure out transportation to go to Tashkent. I approached them to ask for suggestion and they were offered me to tag along to their group right away. Initially they wanted to order Yandex (Ride Hailing Apps) but long story short we ended up taking public bus to Tashkent with only 2000 SOM (0,2 USD).
Though I had a good sleep on the sleeper bus I was still feeling weary in the morning so I decided to just rest in the hostel whole afternoon. I went out just to find lunch and bought Uzbek SIM card then back to hostel to sleep and clean up before leaving again for Samarkand in the evening.
I had booked online a sleeper train to Samarkand that will departed at 19.40. Since the journey from Tashkent to Samarkand only takes 3-4 hours so basically I will not going to sleep on the train.
As I settled on my bed in the compartment, a girl came in, smiling and greeting me in Uzbek language. I said to her I don’t speak Uzbek, she then switched instantly to English, to my surprise. Then she began to introducing herself where I learned that she is an English teacher in Shahrizabh, a city about 1 hour south of Samarkand. She and her other teacher friends just wrapped-up a 3 days conference in Tashkent and were heading back home.
Perhaps recognizing that I was traveling solo, she invited other teachers to our compartment for having a friendly chat. They showered me with questions about my travel, my home country, even requesting a short greeting videos for their student group chats. It was a completely unexpected, yet truly fun encounter, exactly the kind of random connection I’d hoped to get on this trip.
Unfortunately 3,5 hours passed flew by, we said our goodbyes as I disembarked in Samarkand. One of the teacher even helped me to bring my suitcase off the train! Oh, people I met on the road are truly have a surprising way to show their kindness!
As soon as I exited from the station, I hailed a Yandex ride to my hotel that was hard to find due to misplaced location flag on the map. But again, I was lucky enough the driver wanted to take an effort to find my hotel, he even made a call to the hotel with his phone. What a day fulfilled with unexpected kindness! Uzbekistan and its people were quickly winning me over.
SAMARKAND
It was a nice and friendly weather in Samarkand. Although it was sunny but the air was rather breezy so I really enjoyed walking outside.
I started the day wandering along University Boulevard to Gur-e-Amir, to the Registan and all the way to Shah-i-Zhinda Mausoleum. Every places that I wanted to visit on that day was in a fair distance to each other so I was happy to walk to all point of interest and immersed the city atmosphere.
While some articles suggest a single day is enough to tick off Samarkand’s must-visit list but I opted to allocate 2 days so that I could more relax on day 2.
Below are the list of places I’ve visited in a convenient order. I had some stops for brunch, snacks and coffee along the way. Boulevard Cafe was nice and delicious to start the day, Bibi Khanym Teahouse was a great place to have a break after a walk from Registan, and Hleb House made some gluten free pastries!
Actually I received other random kindness when I visited Hleb House, a small cozy cafe in the heart of Samarkand. Upon entering the cafe I inquired if they accepted card payment, I told them that I did not have cash because money exchange at the bank was out the door today. To my surprise, the cafe manager with a warm smile, offered to exchange some money for me herself, using the current Google rate. Oh Uzbek people, you guys are amazing!!
The Mausoleum of Amir Temur (Gur-e-Amir “Tomb of the King”)
Amir Temur is one of the most influential King in Central Asia history, he founded Timurid Empire that conquered Greater Iran, Iraq, Georgia, as well as parts of Pakistan, India and Turkey. He was also a great patron of art and architecture that we can enjoy in Uzbekistan today.
He was buried in the Mausoleum with his descendants hence become the family crypt of Timurid dynasty. The outer wall of the Mausoleum dominated by blue tiles work that organized into geometrical ornaments while the walls and ceilings inside more dominated by gold and blue list color with such a great details. Don’t skip to take a walk around the yard of the building to get different angles.
The Registan Square
The square central is surrounded by 3 grand Madrassah (Islamic schools) : Ulugbek Madrassah, Sher Dor Madrassah, and the Tilla-Kari Madrassah that were built in 15th – 17th century. All together creating a majestic view in one frame.
I really enjoyed sitting on the plaza stairs that overlooking those 3 buildings while absorbing the morning sunlight and listening to some music from my AirPods. I also came back later in the afternoon to enjoy the sunset here. They said it has light performance at night but I did not stay till evening to witness it.
Bibi Khanym Mosque
was one of the largest Mosque in Islamic world. It was built by the order of Amir Timur in 13th-14th century. It was once badly deteriorated through times but finally restored in Soviet-era.
Hasrat Khiszr Mosque
The mosque is named after a prophet ‘Al-Khidr’ that some believe he still alive until today. Inside the area of the mosque also erected the Mausoleum of Islam Karimov, who was the first President of Uzbekistan.
Shah-i-Zhinda “The Living King”
It is a grand complex of Mausoleums and mosque. It first constructed in 11th – 12th century, there lies honored figure of Uzbekistan; Prophet Muhammad’s cousin, Qutham bin Abbas, Amir Temur’s relatives, military and aristocracy.
I did not expect that the place would be like a little Mausoleums town. Each of the Mausoleum built next to each other with similar Timurid architecture style but with different tile work details. It looks so impressive to see all the buildings together. With such a gigantic doorway and amazing outer and inner wall patterns I got the impression that the country really took seriously in honor the important figures.
Fun fact : Shah-i-Zhinda apparently one of the world’s greatest Mausoleums, even ranked after Taj Mahal.
Ulu Begh Observatory
This is the only site that I need to order Yandex to visit since it located a bit far off the center. I came here in almost sunset time and I think that was a perfect time. To be honest, I did not came inside the Observatory cuz I simply did not feel like it. I just sat on one of its bench that overlooking the Observatory doorways, stayed there for an hour or so enjoying the beauty of the overall areas that glow because of the afternoon sun.
BUKHARA
I took fast train from Samarkand to Bukhara in the day time and arrived to Bukhara around 3 pm in the afternoon. Upon approaching the guesthouse where I stayed for 3 days, I could sense a strong medieval town just like in Morocco-Africa.
I could not hold my excitement so I got out the second I checked-in to my guesthouse to get a glimpse of the neighborhood. I strolled through the dusty lanes adoring mud brick houses with old rusty carved bright color doors. It felt like I was thrown back to hundred years ago.
The downtown is like a labyrinth of living museums, a medieval version of Disneyland, as every corner held a treasure of history, great mosques, adorable minarets, and beautifully carved facades of the madrassah. What truly surprised me was the city’s exceptional cleanliness. Unlike the bustling bazaars I’d imagined, the streets were swept clean, the shops displayed with a sense of order, and the overall impression was one of meticulous care – maybe because it is one of UNESCO heritage list?
One memorable thing that I experienced in Bukhara was during my stay at the guesthouse. One afternoon I bursted through the guesthouse entrance after my full-day exploration outside and found out the guesthouse buzzed with chatter and laughter from a long table with that full of local dishes. I carefully walked towards my room with a confused look until a woman intercepted my steps, she was showing a clear gesture of invitation to join the table and enjoy the festive. I was a bit reluctant at first but hey isn’t it something that I was looking for? To experience the real local thing! Without a second thought I joined them. Though our conversation relied heavily on Google Translate, but the warmth of their welcome and the generosity of the people made it a truly memorable afternoon. It turned out to be a birthday celebration for the guesthouse owner’s grandfather – so lucky to have this unexpected cultural immersion in Bukhara!
Arc of Bukhara
It is a giant fortress that was built in 5th century AD hence it became the oldest building in Bukhara that once was home to thousands of Bukhara Khans and Emirs. Over the centuries it has been destroyed and restored many times due to the wars. Until it was greatly destroyed in 1920 during the Battle of Bukhara and fell to Russia. Nowadays the remaining areas has became museum to display its history.
Po’i Kalyan
Po’i Kalyan is the iconic landmark of Bukhara. It is a complex of ancient building that consists of Kalyan Mosque, Kalyan Minaret and Mir-i-Arab Madrassah. My favorite is of course the Minaret, goodness, the geometric details are so pretty. Even though it did not appear to be colorful like in Samarkand but still looks so gorgeous!
Ulugbek Madrassah & Abdulaziz Khan Madrassah
One word for both : Impressive! What I like is both of the building symmetrically located facing each other. You’ll capture a great facade when you get out from one or another. Just like others, none of this Madrassah still operating to these days. Inside is just an empty buildings but everything is still intact to enjoyed by the visitor.
I like to sit in the veranda of a cafe that lies just beside both of the buildings since it has the perfect view of both!
The Toqi
One of authentic Uzbekistan building that I adored a lot. It’s basically a tunnel-like market that beautifully architected by big and small domes as the roof where we can find locals are selling souvenirs, clothing, carpets, ceramics and other knick knacks.
There are some Toqi at the center of downtown Bukhara ; Toqi Telpak Furushon, Toqi Sarrofon, and Toqi Zargaron and I love them all.
Lyabi Khauz
Definitely my favorite place to chill from the heat in the middle of the day, or to have lunch and afternoon coffee! It is a cozy square with a little park and a pond in the middle. The best part is it surrounds by beautiful Madrassah such as Nadir Devonbeghi and Kukaldosh. It was really really good just to sit down, people watching, and enjoy the scenery surrounds.
Chor Minor Madrassah
Well, it used to be a Madrassah but has been destroyed as the years get by. The only remaining is the gatehouse that has 4 towers topped by domes with glazy blue tiles. Nevertheless it still appeared to be iconic in my opinion.
If you get to choose : SAMARKAND VS BUKHARA ?
Samarkand and Bukhara offer entirely different vibes, making them difficult to compare. I highly recommend visiting both for a well-rounded experience. Bukhara feels more atmospheric and steeped in history, it hold strong impression of traditional Uzbekistan. Samarkand, in contrast, has a more modern feel, with vibrant colors and a bustling city atmosphere. You’ll find echoes of Samarkand’s architectural style in Bukhara, but Bukhara gets unique landmarks unseen in Samarkand. It’s a tough call, but based on my experience, I lean slightly towards Bukhara. However, the Registan in Samarkand is truly awe-inspiring and shouldn’t be missed!
Actually there is one other city called Khiva that also worth to visit. Unfortunately I ran out the train ticket to Khiva on the date I desired. I also ran out flight ticket from Khiva back to Tashkent. So I decided to drop it from my plan in order to keep time-efficient.